Particularly underglaze? I need to go out and buy some tomorrow, and I figured I'd ask first. I'm looking for a brush that leaves minimal bristle strokes.What type is the best paint brush to use for Ceramics Glaze OR Acrylic Paints?
Definately go for a synthetic nylon brush for acrylic paint. They produce minimal brush strokes, and little to no bristles will fall out. Tip: Never use sable or squirrel hair brushes with acrylic paint, they gunk up and ruin them, (plus they tend to be a little pricey-er and te last thing you want is to ruin a great brush)
Ceramic glaze, i think a sythetic nylon brush would be fine, but you'd jus have to wash is really well after, or get a cheapy one and throw it out after.What type is the best paint brush to use for Ceramics Glaze OR Acrylic Paints?
I've used acrylic before, and glazed ceramics back in high school. If you want something with little bristle strokes, try a soft hair brush like squirrel or whatever else they have now. Maybe a synthetic sable. The quality and shape depend on how you'll use and care for them.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
How important is it to prime sheetrock before painting? What about if I am painting over existing paint?
If it is possible to skip priming, I would like to. I am in a bit of a rush. But if it is really that important, I will do it.How important is it to prime sheetrock before painting? What about if I am painting over existing paint?
If you are painting over existing paint (depending what it is), you should simply need to rub it down to provide a smooth surface and a key. If you paint new sheetrock, it is absorbent, so needs at least a coat of watered down emulsion before the finish coat or it will be patchy. It isn't really necessary to use special primer, though it does give a better finish.How important is it to prime sheetrock before painting? What about if I am painting over existing paint?
You should definately prime first. The paper on the sheetrock will absorb a lot of paint meaning at least 2 coats to get good coverage. More for certain colors like reds. With a good primer you'll get a more even color and may just need one coat of paint after saving time and some cash
With all due respect; I've applied multiple thousands of gallons of paint in my time; still work at it; and rarely do I prime even RAW. I do most usually apply two coats of whatever color however. I don't consider it cheating at all, and certainly raw drywall will absorb any agent without a lot of pigment or polymers in it. I like to think of it this way.
';I'm probably going to paint two coats anyway; of a quality substance; so why not apply the first coat in the color already chosen.'; If the paint you use is any good; by the second coat there should be few issues. That said... MUD will appear differently through any first coat, than the raw drywall does; so you may just prime the patch and sand areas. For me it's steps taken not strictly neccesary.
Then there are issues in painting over painted surfaces.
Anything applied over a Gloss/Semi gloss/Latex over Oil, or reverse, should be primed first.
In the end just purchase a decent product; Spend a couple extra dollars per gallon; and in the majority of cases I use ';Satin'; it's less porous than FLAT and allows a better ';cleanability'; after the fact.
Steven Wolf
You don't need to prime over existing paint unless the old paint is dark in color and you want to repaint with a lighter color. Painting over dark paint without a primer will cause the darker paint to bleed through the color of the new lighter paint. It is also very important to paint over existing paint with the right base. First thing you need to do if determine the base of the extisting paint. To do this, use nail polish remover or gas line antifreeze (metholhydrate) and rub on the wall with a rag or paper towel. If the paint comes off you have a latex (acrylic) base, if it stays on you have an oil (alkyd) base. You can use latex over latex, oil over latex, but you can't use latex over oil. Using latex over oil will create a severe bonding issue with the new paint. New sheetrock needs to be primed before painting to create a bond and to eliminate streaking of paint, coverage will be poor without a primer and not using primer will cause the drywall compounds to bleed through the paint. You can purchase a primer that is strictly used for new sheetrock and is less expensive than a primer sealer. Use a primer sealer when repainting a light color over a dark one to eliminate a bleed through of color.
its important to prime on brand new rock to seal the surface from drinking your paint. also, if you already have a strong color because the primer prepares the surface for the next color.
i prime all surfaces before painting myself.watch what type of paint you are painting over you do not want to paint latex over oil paint with out the proper prep work..not once did i see someone paint on drywall without priming.
nobody is in that big of a hurry. Dont skip the primer. Havent you ever heard to always do a good job? If the quality isnt there, then whats the purpose?
Any answer that says ';don't worry about priming'; is a stupid answer. There is a right and wrong way to do any deed in life and not priming bare sheetrock is one of them, gotta laugh because on most of these answers they say to prime over glossy finish or prime a dark color, you need no primer for this deed, gloss finish either lightly sand or wipe down with a liquid deglosser, these are woodwork areas and not whole walls and when it comes to changing an existing color you'll 9 out of 10 ten times use 2 coats of finish, do yourself a favor and do the ';MOST IMPORTANT'; step in painting and use a primer on first coat on any ';NEW'; surface!!! Good luck Les the painter
It's up to you, but I've found that if you are using a color darker than the color of sand, you'll be happier if you did.
Try this:
Take two parts of the same wall receiving the same light. They don't have to be much larger than a 2x2 foot section for each. Prime one part followed by two coats of your final color. On the other section, just apply two coats.
Do they look any different?
I recently had new drywall installed in my home (6 rooms). My drywall finisher (30+ years exper) felt that it was so important to prime the new drywall, he provided 10 gallons of Sherman Williams primer-with the advice to ';BE SURE TO USE PRIMER .';
I understand being in a bit of a hurry, I was too, but you can have your primer tinted to help you along, at no additional charge. The whole process is not inexpensive, don't skip the important stuff now.
AJMiller Drywall, New Philadelphia Ohio-in case you are interested.
If you are painting over existing paint (depending what it is), you should simply need to rub it down to provide a smooth surface and a key. If you paint new sheetrock, it is absorbent, so needs at least a coat of watered down emulsion before the finish coat or it will be patchy. It isn't really necessary to use special primer, though it does give a better finish.How important is it to prime sheetrock before painting? What about if I am painting over existing paint?
You should definately prime first. The paper on the sheetrock will absorb a lot of paint meaning at least 2 coats to get good coverage. More for certain colors like reds. With a good primer you'll get a more even color and may just need one coat of paint after saving time and some cash
With all due respect; I've applied multiple thousands of gallons of paint in my time; still work at it; and rarely do I prime even RAW. I do most usually apply two coats of whatever color however. I don't consider it cheating at all, and certainly raw drywall will absorb any agent without a lot of pigment or polymers in it. I like to think of it this way.
';I'm probably going to paint two coats anyway; of a quality substance; so why not apply the first coat in the color already chosen.'; If the paint you use is any good; by the second coat there should be few issues. That said... MUD will appear differently through any first coat, than the raw drywall does; so you may just prime the patch and sand areas. For me it's steps taken not strictly neccesary.
Then there are issues in painting over painted surfaces.
Anything applied over a Gloss/Semi gloss/Latex over Oil, or reverse, should be primed first.
In the end just purchase a decent product; Spend a couple extra dollars per gallon; and in the majority of cases I use ';Satin'; it's less porous than FLAT and allows a better ';cleanability'; after the fact.
Steven Wolf
You don't need to prime over existing paint unless the old paint is dark in color and you want to repaint with a lighter color. Painting over dark paint without a primer will cause the darker paint to bleed through the color of the new lighter paint. It is also very important to paint over existing paint with the right base. First thing you need to do if determine the base of the extisting paint. To do this, use nail polish remover or gas line antifreeze (metholhydrate) and rub on the wall with a rag or paper towel. If the paint comes off you have a latex (acrylic) base, if it stays on you have an oil (alkyd) base. You can use latex over latex, oil over latex, but you can't use latex over oil. Using latex over oil will create a severe bonding issue with the new paint. New sheetrock needs to be primed before painting to create a bond and to eliminate streaking of paint, coverage will be poor without a primer and not using primer will cause the drywall compounds to bleed through the paint. You can purchase a primer that is strictly used for new sheetrock and is less expensive than a primer sealer. Use a primer sealer when repainting a light color over a dark one to eliminate a bleed through of color.
its important to prime on brand new rock to seal the surface from drinking your paint. also, if you already have a strong color because the primer prepares the surface for the next color.
i prime all surfaces before painting myself.watch what type of paint you are painting over you do not want to paint latex over oil paint with out the proper prep work..not once did i see someone paint on drywall without priming.
nobody is in that big of a hurry. Dont skip the primer. Havent you ever heard to always do a good job? If the quality isnt there, then whats the purpose?
Any answer that says ';don't worry about priming'; is a stupid answer. There is a right and wrong way to do any deed in life and not priming bare sheetrock is one of them, gotta laugh because on most of these answers they say to prime over glossy finish or prime a dark color, you need no primer for this deed, gloss finish either lightly sand or wipe down with a liquid deglosser, these are woodwork areas and not whole walls and when it comes to changing an existing color you'll 9 out of 10 ten times use 2 coats of finish, do yourself a favor and do the ';MOST IMPORTANT'; step in painting and use a primer on first coat on any ';NEW'; surface!!! Good luck Les the painter
It's up to you, but I've found that if you are using a color darker than the color of sand, you'll be happier if you did.
Try this:
Take two parts of the same wall receiving the same light. They don't have to be much larger than a 2x2 foot section for each. Prime one part followed by two coats of your final color. On the other section, just apply two coats.
Do they look any different?
I recently had new drywall installed in my home (6 rooms). My drywall finisher (30+ years exper) felt that it was so important to prime the new drywall, he provided 10 gallons of Sherman Williams primer-with the advice to ';BE SURE TO USE PRIMER .';
I understand being in a bit of a hurry, I was too, but you can have your primer tinted to help you along, at no additional charge. The whole process is not inexpensive, don't skip the important stuff now.
AJMiller Drywall, New Philadelphia Ohio-in case you are interested.
What is the best spray paint to buy when spray painting a bike?
I already know how to spray paint my frame without screwing the paint job up, but i don't know which spray paint to use.What is the best spray paint to buy when spray painting a bike?
Krylon is great. I suggest always doing what's called a tack coat. That is when you initially just spray a very light coat and let it sit about 5-10 minutes ( depending on humidity), and when it's just slightly tacky then spray a normal coat. I have used this technique in times when I had no primer available and had no 'runs drips or errors' ( Johnny Bench the baseball player used to say that on a spray paint commercial. I think it was for Krylon).What is the best spray paint to buy when spray painting a bike?
any will work most expensive one in the store when painting spray primer first then your paint or else the paint wont stay on your bike
check out this website.....excellent array of products
krylon, use an airbrush with automotive paint and a few coats for the best results.
use a air bush and use gold and black it is cool as but take the stikers off first
Krylon is great. I suggest always doing what's called a tack coat. That is when you initially just spray a very light coat and let it sit about 5-10 minutes ( depending on humidity), and when it's just slightly tacky then spray a normal coat. I have used this technique in times when I had no primer available and had no 'runs drips or errors' ( Johnny Bench the baseball player used to say that on a spray paint commercial. I think it was for Krylon).What is the best spray paint to buy when spray painting a bike?
any will work most expensive one in the store when painting spray primer first then your paint or else the paint wont stay on your bike
check out this website.....excellent array of products
krylon, use an airbrush with automotive paint and a few coats for the best results.
use a air bush and use gold and black it is cool as but take the stikers off first
How do i go about painting a design on my crappy old car? What type of paint could I use?
My car is going to die before I ever sell it, and I'm an art student, so I figured it would be fun to stencil a design on my hood. I'm not going to paint the whole car, just a small portion. Could I use spray paint meant for metal you get at home depot? Or would that instantly peel and chip? I know this has to be possible.How do i go about painting a design on my crappy old car? What type of paint could I use?
Go see what left-over paints you can get from the car painting body shop.How do i go about painting a design on my crappy old car? What type of paint could I use?
well depending on what kind of art you study and how you learned would be a good way to start. to decide what kind of paint you want to use go to a hardware store and just tell them your story they will probably help you out
Well, any enamel will stick (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc.), but you need to at least scuff up the old paint first. You are an art student, get creative! Decopauge, stripe it, or something. I remember a carpet dealer who glued carpet samples and completely covered a VW bug once! Get some of your classmates brainstorm into an idea. Who knows, someone may want to buy it when you're done!
Go see what left-over paints you can get from the car painting body shop.How do i go about painting a design on my crappy old car? What type of paint could I use?
well depending on what kind of art you study and how you learned would be a good way to start. to decide what kind of paint you want to use go to a hardware store and just tell them your story they will probably help you out
Well, any enamel will stick (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc.), but you need to at least scuff up the old paint first. You are an art student, get creative! Decopauge, stripe it, or something. I remember a carpet dealer who glued carpet samples and completely covered a VW bug once! Get some of your classmates brainstorm into an idea. Who knows, someone may want to buy it when you're done!
How do i know what paint color and paint type is on my walls?
some areas need touch ups but i have no idea what exact color the previous owners used on the walls.
i do not want to repaint everything, just touchups here and there.
there is no way of contacting the prev owners. it was bank-owned.How do i know what paint color and paint type is on my walls?
Take a chip of it to Wal-Mart and match it to a sample, or have them mix up some for you- gloss? matte?. You can probably get close, but it may be best just to do one entirely fresh coat.How do i know what paint color and paint type is on my walls?
Just so you know, even if you had the exact name, brand and sheen, this will not match. If you are trying to be too precise, you will end up probably spending more time and money instead of just painting everything. good luck.
Go to paint store and get some sample paint chips. Find the one closest to your color. Buy a small amount or sample bottle. Make the touchups.
Peel a little chunk of the wall and bring it to Home Depot or Lowe's. They can match it up with their computer.
It's most likely latex (water-based) paint unless it was painted decades ago. You can figure out the sheen from getting a sheen chart from a paint store or from anywhere that sells paint. The most common sheens for interior walls are flat, eggshell, satin, and semi-gloss. If the paint has absolutely no shine to it, it's flat. If it has a minimal amount of shine but doesn't seem to reflect light, it's eggshell. Satin reflects light and has some shine but does not appear at all glossy. And semi-gloss is self-described: it's glossy, but when compared to something that's really high gloss, it doesn't appear as glossy.
Most places that sell paint will do color-matching. All you'll need to take is a chip of paint no larger than 1 inch by 1 inch. If you can carefully remove a paint chip about that size from by one of the spots that you need to touch up, that will work great. Take your paint chip to a paint store, and tell them that you want it color-matched, and be sure to tell them that you are doing touch-ups and you need the exact color.
You might want to take a sheen chart home with you and hold it up to your wall to decide what sheen it is rather than try to compare you little paint chip to the sheen chart at the store. If the sheen is too different from what's on the wall already, that will be more noticeable than if the color isn't 100% exact.
When you get home with your color-matched paint, paint one of the areas that needs touching up. Let it dry--you can speed this up by using a hair dryer on it. If you're satisfied, and it looks good, then go ahead and do the rest of your touch-ups. If the color is slightly off to where it's noticeable, take the paint back to the store along with you paint chip and tell them you need the color adjusted. Let them know whether it was too light or dark, or had too much red in it or whatever the difference in color was. They should be able to adjust it to make it exact. Most stores that have color-matching readers advertise that they can match any color. Hold them to their word.
One other thing: if you go to a hardware store or paint store specifically, it is likely that the employee matching the paint for you will have a lot more experience than employees at Walmart that have simply been trained on how to mix paint. If the color needs tweeking slightly, you'll have better luck at a hardware store or paint store.
In Consumer Reports a few of the top-ranking paints are Behr (sold at Home Depot), Valspar (sold at Lowe's), and Kilz (this ranks #1 and is sold at Walmart, so the person mixing paint might not know as much as someone somewhere else, but this is still worth considering-it's a good price). Expensive paints like Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore rank mediocre or even poor in Consumer Reports magazine. You shouldn't need to spend any more than $25 a gallon for a top-performing paint.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
i do not want to repaint everything, just touchups here and there.
there is no way of contacting the prev owners. it was bank-owned.How do i know what paint color and paint type is on my walls?
Take a chip of it to Wal-Mart and match it to a sample, or have them mix up some for you- gloss? matte?. You can probably get close, but it may be best just to do one entirely fresh coat.How do i know what paint color and paint type is on my walls?
Just so you know, even if you had the exact name, brand and sheen, this will not match. If you are trying to be too precise, you will end up probably spending more time and money instead of just painting everything. good luck.
Go to paint store and get some sample paint chips. Find the one closest to your color. Buy a small amount or sample bottle. Make the touchups.
Peel a little chunk of the wall and bring it to Home Depot or Lowe's. They can match it up with their computer.
It's most likely latex (water-based) paint unless it was painted decades ago. You can figure out the sheen from getting a sheen chart from a paint store or from anywhere that sells paint. The most common sheens for interior walls are flat, eggshell, satin, and semi-gloss. If the paint has absolutely no shine to it, it's flat. If it has a minimal amount of shine but doesn't seem to reflect light, it's eggshell. Satin reflects light and has some shine but does not appear at all glossy. And semi-gloss is self-described: it's glossy, but when compared to something that's really high gloss, it doesn't appear as glossy.
Most places that sell paint will do color-matching. All you'll need to take is a chip of paint no larger than 1 inch by 1 inch. If you can carefully remove a paint chip about that size from by one of the spots that you need to touch up, that will work great. Take your paint chip to a paint store, and tell them that you want it color-matched, and be sure to tell them that you are doing touch-ups and you need the exact color.
You might want to take a sheen chart home with you and hold it up to your wall to decide what sheen it is rather than try to compare you little paint chip to the sheen chart at the store. If the sheen is too different from what's on the wall already, that will be more noticeable than if the color isn't 100% exact.
When you get home with your color-matched paint, paint one of the areas that needs touching up. Let it dry--you can speed this up by using a hair dryer on it. If you're satisfied, and it looks good, then go ahead and do the rest of your touch-ups. If the color is slightly off to where it's noticeable, take the paint back to the store along with you paint chip and tell them you need the color adjusted. Let them know whether it was too light or dark, or had too much red in it or whatever the difference in color was. They should be able to adjust it to make it exact. Most stores that have color-matching readers advertise that they can match any color. Hold them to their word.
One other thing: if you go to a hardware store or paint store specifically, it is likely that the employee matching the paint for you will have a lot more experience than employees at Walmart that have simply been trained on how to mix paint. If the color needs tweeking slightly, you'll have better luck at a hardware store or paint store.
In Consumer Reports a few of the top-ranking paints are Behr (sold at Home Depot), Valspar (sold at Lowe's), and Kilz (this ranks #1 and is sold at Walmart, so the person mixing paint might not know as much as someone somewhere else, but this is still worth considering-it's a good price). Expensive paints like Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore rank mediocre or even poor in Consumer Reports magazine. You shouldn't need to spend any more than $25 a gallon for a top-performing paint.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
How do I go about painting over freshly applied antifouling paint?
Some say wetsand it down, add primer coat on the top of that then paint, some say just apply primer over antifouling and repaint while some say apply primer, resand then paint in your colour choice - what do you say?How do I go about painting over freshly applied antifouling paint?
You don't want to paint over antifouling paint with regular paint! It will defeat the whole purpose of using antifouling paint. The bottom of the boat only, should be cover in antifouling, to just above the water line.
I recommend using Abblative Antifouling paint, which slowly sheds itself during the boating season, leaving a fresh layer, and decreasing buildup year after year.How do I go about painting over freshly applied antifouling paint?
It depends on what paint you have on there now. Most of the time a good pressure washing with a light sanding does the job for prep work. Then repaint. Bottom paint is expensive so paint and then use up the rest close to the waterline.
Don't apply any other paint over anti== paint as it will not stay anti==paint is designed to slowly remover it self%26gt;Sand to bare fiberglass then paint%26gt;Not going to be a easy job and where a Suit %26amp; Resperator as the anti=p is very toxic%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Since the purpose of anti-fouling paint is to keep marine animals and plants from growing on the hull, I would expect you don't want to cover it up and only apply it up to just above the water line, then use regular marine paint above. Besides, topside paint needs to withstand the sun and weather a lot more than anit-fouling paint does
what type of paint and why, do you want to give it a second coat of antifouling , or do you just want regular paint over it for some reason?
I wouldn't sand that toxic paint! Fresh anti fouling paint on your boat should be good to go. What's wrong with it? That's good paint and it will ware off with time in the water.lip chapstick
You don't want to paint over antifouling paint with regular paint! It will defeat the whole purpose of using antifouling paint. The bottom of the boat only, should be cover in antifouling, to just above the water line.
I recommend using Abblative Antifouling paint, which slowly sheds itself during the boating season, leaving a fresh layer, and decreasing buildup year after year.How do I go about painting over freshly applied antifouling paint?
It depends on what paint you have on there now. Most of the time a good pressure washing with a light sanding does the job for prep work. Then repaint. Bottom paint is expensive so paint and then use up the rest close to the waterline.
Don't apply any other paint over anti== paint as it will not stay anti==paint is designed to slowly remover it self%26gt;Sand to bare fiberglass then paint%26gt;Not going to be a easy job and where a Suit %26amp; Resperator as the anti=p is very toxic%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Since the purpose of anti-fouling paint is to keep marine animals and plants from growing on the hull, I would expect you don't want to cover it up and only apply it up to just above the water line, then use regular marine paint above. Besides, topside paint needs to withstand the sun and weather a lot more than anit-fouling paint does
what type of paint and why, do you want to give it a second coat of antifouling , or do you just want regular paint over it for some reason?
I wouldn't sand that toxic paint! Fresh anti fouling paint on your boat should be good to go. What's wrong with it? That's good paint and it will ware off with time in the water.
Is it safe to use paint stripper on a child's little tikes slide to get rid of paint splashes?
I bought my daughter a second hand slide yesterday but when I've washed it it's covered in paint flecks which won't come off with scubbing. I was wondering if paint stripper would be ok on the plastic?Is it safe to use paint stripper on a child's little tikes slide to get rid of paint splashes?
NO NO NO. paint strippers are VERY toxic chemicals that will melt plastic. it would ruin the slide fairly quickly. As the other answer stated, use Krud Kutter. it is a water based, mild cleaner that removes dried latex paint. i use it to clean paint out of clothes, but it is strong enough to use around the store to clean up paint spills. read any paint stripper can, it will say not to use on plastic. you should find Krud Kutter at most hardware/paint stores. the other thing that might help is using fingernails/hard plastic to try to scrape the paint off.Is it safe to use paint stripper on a child's little tikes slide to get rid of paint splashes?
use crud cutter to remove the paint you can find this at a home depot. i believe the stripper will ruin the slide ( plastic)
As long as you don't pour it straight on the slide and let it sit, it should work well. Put a little on a rag, and wipe it. You may have to do this several times...after that, just wash with soapy water, rinse well, and let your daughter enjoy her new toy!
sure use it then use clorox then let set a day or too wash with soap and water
I would try nail polish remover first--it works great on getting off almost anything!! Works wonders on permanent Markers!! So good luck with the paint!! :)
test it on a nonstructural unimportant hidden part of slide
just a drop should do
Its unlikely, the paint stripper will probably melt the plastic. Test on an iconspicuous area first make sure you wash it down thouroughly after.
It should be alright. Just don't use a whole lot of it. And wipe it down with a soapy rag when done.
NO NO NO. paint strippers are VERY toxic chemicals that will melt plastic. it would ruin the slide fairly quickly. As the other answer stated, use Krud Kutter. it is a water based, mild cleaner that removes dried latex paint. i use it to clean paint out of clothes, but it is strong enough to use around the store to clean up paint spills. read any paint stripper can, it will say not to use on plastic. you should find Krud Kutter at most hardware/paint stores. the other thing that might help is using fingernails/hard plastic to try to scrape the paint off.Is it safe to use paint stripper on a child's little tikes slide to get rid of paint splashes?
use crud cutter to remove the paint you can find this at a home depot. i believe the stripper will ruin the slide ( plastic)
As long as you don't pour it straight on the slide and let it sit, it should work well. Put a little on a rag, and wipe it. You may have to do this several times...after that, just wash with soapy water, rinse well, and let your daughter enjoy her new toy!
sure use it then use clorox then let set a day or too wash with soap and water
I would try nail polish remover first--it works great on getting off almost anything!! Works wonders on permanent Markers!! So good luck with the paint!! :)
test it on a nonstructural unimportant hidden part of slide
just a drop should do
Its unlikely, the paint stripper will probably melt the plastic. Test on an iconspicuous area first make sure you wash it down thouroughly after.
It should be alright. Just don't use a whole lot of it. And wipe it down with a soapy rag when done.
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